Learn how to surf with surfer/photographer Shaan Kokin!

I think surfing, or shall I say the “extreme sport” of surfing, has gotten a bad rap.  The surfer is stereotyped many times as a “beach bum” who smokes dope, drinks beer, and parties too much.  If you do any of this, then excess surfing is not for you - Mainly because you can drown.

The ocean's energy is so powerful that you must constantly be in awe of it.  As we all know, we saw what the ocean can do with the tsunami that hit two years ago. So, now that I've scared you enough, you might want to start out in small waves like 1 to 3 feet.

But even before that, you've got to get IN SHAPE!  I mean really good shape, like swimming and running for at least 40 minutes every other day would be a good start. Then, I'd do some ocean swimming and some body surfing.

You should really get to know the wave and learn how it breaks, because eventually, and what surfing really is, is becoming one with the wave.  You're gonna be inside it, and on top of it, and the closest feeling of explaining it is as if your on a moving mountain.

So now that you're in shape and able to do plenty of push-ups, get yourself a surfboard.  The bigger the board the easier it is to stand, so I recommend a long board if you're just starting.  They make long boards out of foam, which I recommend for beginners, so if the board hits you, it wont hurt you.

You should practice on the sand first -  pretending to paddle and how to “pop up” on the board. Popping up is really important, in one smooth motion you should be able to rise from your stomach to your feet.  And remember, you have to do this on a moving wave, so balance is key.

Once you're on the wave, this is the easy part -  you just glide and thrust along the wave like a rollercoaster ride, catching and standing up on the wave is the hard part.

Surfing takes years of practice, but is great fun and a great feeling - almost feels as if your flying on water! So start slowly, get in shape, and go catch some waves!  If there is no beach where you live, think about a trip to Hawaii or L.A. -  there are waves all over the world!

Written by Surfer/Photographer Shaan Kokin
Photos by Matthew Hynes